The Pre-fall 2024 Menswear collection by Moschino is a moving display of ingenuity and tenacity, made the more tragic by the recent loss of Davide Renne, the house's recently appointed creative director. The collection's overarching concept is heart, which gives every item of clothing a profoundly emotional depth.

A stunning tuxedo shirt with frills along the front and a huge red heart inserted at the breast is the show's standout item. The collection is unified by this understated yet striking theme, which reaches its peak in the last looks when fleeced insets slit across pants and the arms of sweaters and car jackets. Beyond hearts, whimsical geometric forms like triangles and circles are used into color-blocking designs to captivate viewers with a visually fascinating game of perception.

The collection is infused with humour by way of unexpected elements, all while maintaining the signature tongue-in-cheek Moschino design. A touch of irreverence is added by the prominently displayed bright red security tags on coats and pants, which pay homage to physical store experiences. The brand's distinctive quirkiness is enhanced with comically sized ties with extra-wide cuts and blunt hems in colourful stripes.

The brand's love of deception and surprise is evident in the pants with exposed saggy boxer waistbands and the sweatshirts "collaged" with button-downs, which highlight the trompe l'oeil method. Knitted accessories, like the aptly called "belly warmer" cummerbund, underline Moschino's capacity to combine innovation and tradition even further.

One of the collection's highlights is a sky blue suit that deftly blends classic and contemporary style. The leather jacket, with its three buttons and flap pockets and rather vintage form, looks well with a woven fabric button-down shirt and flared pants. A black tie with neon salmon polka dots brightens the whole look, demonstrating Moschino's ability to add refinement without compromising its unique fun.