At São Paulo Fashion Week N59, João Pimenta returned with a deeply introspective and architecturally poised menswear collection titled Em Construção (Under Construction), staged against the atmospheric backdrop of the Júlio Prestes train station. Accompanied by the soulful resonance of pianist Jonathan Ferr, the presentation underscored Pimenta’s continued evolution as a designer who reframes masculinity through craftsmanship and cultural nuance.

This season, Pimenta turned away from the fluidity of past collections and re-centered his focus on masculine tailoring—not as limitation, but as reinvention. Drawing exclusively from traditional menswear codes, he explored structure and sartorial legacy with fresh perspective. Moulage, a technique traditionally rooted in womenswear, was recontextualized to sculpt the male form, challenging the increasing automation of fashion and championing the artistry of the human hand.

Tailoring staples—ties, tailcoats, jumpsuits, and classic shirting—were reimagined with asymmetry, exaggerated silhouettes, and offbeat fastenings. A standout: the one-shoulder blazer, fastened at the side, exemplified Pimenta’s fusion of formality and experimentation. Super-wide trousers, structured shoulders, and pointed flats echoed global runway trends, while retaining a distinctly Brazilian soul.

Textiles played a narrative role, juxtaposing classic wools, linens, and velvets with re-manufactured fabrics, all rendered in an earthy, contemplative palette—ivory, beige, khaki, charcoal, and sea-toned blue-greens. The result was a tactile meditation on construction, deconstruction, and the quiet rebellion of manual labor over mechanization.

More than a fashion show, it was an homage to tailoring as cultural expression. João Pimenta’s atelier—anchored in local expertise and collaborative spirit—crafted a vision that felt at once global and intimately grounded. With Em Construção, he proposed not just clothes, but a blueprint for rethinking how masculinity can be dressed, shaped, and ultimately, redefined.