Elie Saab invited us into a court of confection and couture with The New Court, his Fall/Winter 2025–2026 Haute Couture collection that reimagines 18th-century opulence through a lens of youthful delight. More than a nostalgic gaze, this was a forward-facing fantasy—a world where powdered wigs meet pastel rebellion, and silk gazar skirts whirl with cinematic ease.

Set against the backdrop of Paris Fashion Week, Saab’s runway was a regal dream infused with modern flair. Like lifting the lid of an ornate pastry box, guests were greeted with a color palette as delectable as it was refined: rosewater pinks, mint greens, soft pistachios, and frosted lilacs—tones that danced across silk, lace, and jacquards like sugar on meringue.

While Marie Antoinette’s world served as the collection’s poetic compass, this court was no rigid reenactment. Instead, Saab offered a playful, luxurious rebellion against minimalism—one that speaks directly to a new generation embracing elegance with bold volume and theatrical charm.

Inspired by the delicate irreverence of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, Saab fused the spirit of historical extravagance with contemporary silhouettes. Voluminous skirts, sculpted from feather-light silk gazar and padded just enough to nod to pannier shapes, became central to the fantasy. These weren’t costumes—they were wearable daydreams for the modern empress.

Fabrics sourced entirely from France—Lyon lace, weightless jacquards, and antique-inspired brocades—were reworked using traditional hand techniques and modern layering. Every detail was a study in transformation: capes floated like whispers of drama, while arm-length shrugs and draped sleeves offered soft structure and feminine strength.

One of the collection’s most charming surprises was a tailored knee-length trouser suit, accented with delicate bows at the calf—a clever wink to 18th-century menswear, updated for a bold, modern debutante. It’s this blend of historical nuance and contemporary daring that made The New Court feel less like a museum piece and more like a dream for the TikTok age.

From silhouette to soundtrack—featuring selections from Coppola’s cult-classic film—the experience was immersive, exquisite, and undeniably modern. Saab delivered a visual feast, yes, but more importantly, he offered a message: youth doesn’t need to be pared down to be powerful. Grandeur can be graceful, and fantasy has a place in today’s fashion lexicon.

With The New Court, Elie Saab didn't simply resurrect royal silhouettes—he redefined them. This is haute couture as empowerment: lush, expressive, and perfectly tailored for a generation rewriting the rules of elegance one pastel puff at a time.