At Tokyo Fashion Week, Chika Kisada unveiled her Spring Summer 2026 collection in a stark, concrete-lined venue, a deliberate contrast that set the stage for her signature dialogue between grace and grit. This season pushed the brand’s evolving “ballet × punk” aesthetic to new extremes, exploring femininity through a lens of raw deconstruction and hybrid reinvention.

Silhouettes embraced feminine curves but were continually disrupted by masculine, utility-driven elements. Everyday wardrobe staples – polo shirts, striped shirting, and trench coats – were dismantled and reassembled, their patchwork seams and clashing fabrics offering a sense of familiar garments newly fractured. Torn tights were stitched back into form, while dresses spliced from multiple textiles embodied a spirit of rebellion threaded with refinement.

Material play anchored the collection, with denim, cotton, and waterproof fabrics reimagined through irregular cuts and layering. Kisada’s signature use of tulle softened the toughness: translucent ruffles trailed from skirts, and sheer inserts punctuated tailored jackets, transforming rigidity into movement without losing their structural bite.

Ballet references appeared in leotard-inspired pieces amplified with exaggerated ruffles and long fringes, while the crinoline worn unexpectedly beneath striped tops offered playful volume from within. These gestures gave the collection a sense of whimsy while retaining its edge of urban disobedience.

By balancing fragility with aggression and elegance with disruption, Chika Kisada presented a wardrobe of contradictions that feels distinctly of the moment: performative yet practical, romantic yet rebellious. The SS26 collection stood as a declaration of a modern femininity unafraid to pirouette on its own terms.