At New York Fashion Week, Colleen Allen’s Spring Summer 2026 lookbook reinterpreted the language of lingerie and domestic dress into a poised, body-conscious wardrobe designed for the outside world. Delicate references slipped in, with lace and feather-light chiffons transformed into garments that felt intimate yet assertive, poised between fragility and strength.

Cocooning coats in shimmering fabrics sat beside slip dresses and keyhole gowns, while blouses with blouson sleeves and disheveled ruffles introduced tactile immediacy. Silhouettes tightened this season: Victorian-inspired jackets cropped to the waist were paired with pedal pushers, while bias-cut lingerie slips became cocktail-ready statements. Standouts included a backless knit gown that hung with flawless precision and a black dress rumpled with intentional ruffles – fragile in spirit, but structurally composed.

Construction was meticulous, preserving the integrity of sheer fabrics through careful facings and precise seam work. Lace and tulle appeared with restraint, often playful girdle-like shorts and tiny brassiere tops without tipping into indulgence. Knitwear emerged as a technical highlight: form-hugging separates, engineered with fluency, balanced comfort and polish, suggesting an expanded vocabulary for future seasons.

Color played a central role. Marigold, ultraviolet, and baby peach punctuated the classic noir-and-ivory base, infusing lightweight constructions with gravitas. Textural contrasts enriched the collection shimmering outerwear layered over matte slips, airy chiffons offset by sculptural knits – each look carrying both tension and refinement.

Minimal styling kept focus on cut and fabric. Subtle irreverent details, strategic keyholes and a rear reveal in a polished lace skirt gave the collection its edge, reading as confident rather than coy. The result was a sensual, self-assured wardrobe: garments that assert through craft, intimacy, and quiet daring rather than spectacle.