Edeline Lee’s Spring/Summer 2026 show opened in her signature key of poise and precision: a mock-neck charmeuse gown grazing the ankle, a cap-sleeve shift in bubble flou jacquard, and a watercolour-dappled georgette frock that echoed her controlled, ladylike codes. But then, with a sudden burst of smoke and Charli XCX reverberating through the room, the collection unraveled literally.

Sashes slipped into trailing rouleau tassels that multiplied into full gowns of fringe. Hemlines detached, suspended on hoops that swung like kinetic sculptures, evoking the spectacle of a traveling circus “here one night, gone the next,” as Lee described it. Circle skirts in pale pink and mint floated on shifting constructions, each look moving with its own rhythm. Ruffled collars, Pierrot-inspired bibs, and sequined column dresses added a note of whimsy, as if the runway itself were strewn with glitter from a vanished carnival.

The most unexpected development came in knitwear, a debut for Lee. Her perennial Pedernal dress and other signatures were reimagined in flechage panels of FSC-certified viscose, bringing texture, versatility, and a new commercial pathway. These sleek knits were a standout, underscoring Lee’s point that knitwear need not be reduced to “fuzzy sweaters” to feel modern and relevant.

The choice of a traditional runway, rather than one of Lee’s signature immersive presentations, was its own bold statement. Without the theatrical framing of past seasons, the garments themselves carried the narrative, and for much of the show, they did. The tassels, hoops, and sequins introduced drama and playfulness, while the knitwear grounded the collection with practicality and innovation.

If there was a fault line, it was in moments where spectacle overpowered structure. A few overcomplicated silhouettes diluted the sharp precision that defines Lee’s work. Yet this tension between risk and refinement seemed deliberate, a collection designed to test how far her codes could stretch without breaking.

Ultimately, Edeline Lee SS26 captured the thrill of transition. By weaving theatrical surprise into a framework of technical mastery, she reminded her audience that “Made in England” can be both a rallying cry and a stage for reinvention.