In its fifth year, Fetico has solidified its place as Japan’s most provocative fashion house, and its Spring/Summer 2026 show at Tokyo Fashion Week proved why. Designer Emi Funayama, this season’s Rakuten “By R” sponsorship recipient, unveiled The Depth of Her, a hypnotic meditation on sensuality that straddled gothic allure and raw intimacy. It was not just a collection but a defiant reframing of Japanese femininity, rendered in lace, corsetry, and daring silhouettes that invited both revelation and restraint.

The runway pulsed with Funayama’s signature vampiric aesthetic: lace-covered bustles draped over tailored frames, denim corsets fused boudoir with street, and pointed collars plunged toward the waist, framing torsos like architectural exclamation points. Highlights included strappy lace cutout bodysuits layered with lingerie, body-skimming dresses that hugged every contour, and a cropped crimson blazer with a keyhole cutout at the small of the back – a look that balanced provocation with wit.

What makes Fetico compelling is its refusal to tip into parody. Funayama negotiates a space between extremes: dominatrix red-light edge on one hand and veiled restraint on the other. This push and pull allows her clothes to feel daring yet wearable, catering to women navigating their own thresholds of exposure and confidence. “Although they have very different styles, I really sympathized with their conviction in creating something that they believed is beautiful,” Funayama explained of her inspirations, artists Rebecca Horne and Irina Ionesco. That conviction translated into garments that felt like visual conversations between softness and steel, intimacy and spectacle.

For all its seduction, The Depth of Her posed a universal question: Who do I want to be today? Fetico offers no singular answer. Instead, Funayama hands the agency to the wearer, allowing identity to shift fluidly between whispers of allure and declarations of power. It is fashion as dialogue, not dictation – an amplification of individuality rather than a prescription of it.

As Tokyo Fashion Week continues to cement itself as a global stage, Fetico’s SS26 collection stood apart as a statement of conviction, artistry, and evolution. Funayama’s designs do more than dress the body; they dare it to speak, and in doing so, they redefine what Japanese sensuality can mean in the modern era.