ADAD Campaignfall winter 2026-2027fashionFashion BrandFashion CollectionFashion ShowJohn RichmondLondon fashion weekRUNWAY
John Richmond FW26-27 Collection: Couture of the Underground
For Fall/Winter 2026–2027, John Richmond abandoned understatement in favor of spectacle, staging his runway inside the Crypt at St Martin-in-the-Fields. Beneath vaulted stone ceilings, the atmosphere throbbed with after-dark intensity as remixed strains of Depeche Mode’s Personal Jesus reverberated through the chamber. The setting amplified the collection’s voltage: this was rebellion, reframed with ceremony.
Richmond’s thesis was unapologetic. Goth, punk, and Teddy Boy codes were neither diluted nor caricatured; they were recut with couture precision. Bondage straps traced the lines of tailoring, industrial chains flashed against velvet, and drainpipe trousers anchored silhouettes that balanced insurrection with discipline. Poet shirts, capes, and scrunch boots read as cultural signifiers elevated beyond nostalgia. This was a remix, not a revival.
Details carried the narrative. A velvet tuxedo jacket embroidered with “Angel” and “Devil” in mother-of-pearl buttons along the lapels captured Richmond’s instinct for provocatively polished to a high gloss. Capelets armored with leather harnessing and metallic grommets, fused ecclesiastical grandeur with clubland defiance. Even the little black dress was sharpened by prim white collars, its restraint undercut by attitude.
The palette reinforced the dialectic: black and ivory punctured by electric pink. Austerity met flamboyance in deliberate tension. These were garments engineered for nocturnal ceremony, prom dresses for the Goth romantic, and velvet tailoring for a Teddy Boy at a black-tie affair. Subculture, made sovereign.
Menswear emerged with particular authority. A long, lean leather trench carved a commanding silhouette: architectural, precise, unyielding. It distilled Richmond’s enduring message: rebellion is most potent when impeccably cut.
In an era preoccupied with minimalism and muted luxury, Richmond’s maximalist defiance felt strategic. He does not treat subculture as fringe but as foundational, an enduring pillar of British fashion identity. Fall Winter 2026–2027 did not whisper beneath the crypt’s ancient arches. It asserted, with conviction, that attitude, when expertly tailored, remains timeless.






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