For Spring/Summer 2027, David Koma takes to the ice rink, reinterpreting the fierce glamour of 1990s figure skating through a distinctly modern lens. Inspired by the sport’s dramatic silhouettes and the determination of Tonya Harding, the collection explores the tension between athletic functionality and high-octane femininity. Practical warm-up layers evolve into striking rinkside statements, sharpened by Koma’s signature precision tailoring, feathered embellishments, and an unapologetically theatrical sensibility.

A considered palette of inky black, milky ivory, and satin-like pastels lends the collection its distinctive balance, tempering sweetness with a darker, more assertive edge. A mint-blue bomber with a technical neckline sits alongside gathered and fringed skirts, candy-pink knickers, sculptural bodysuits, and metallic column gowns. Each look reimagines the codes of skating attire, translating its streamlined athleticism into silhouettes that feel polished, provocative, and unmistakably Koma.

The geometry of compulsory skating figures, from concentric circles to sweeping figure-eights, emerges as a recurring visual language. On a black minidress, circular crystal beadwork encases mother-of-pearl centres, transforming the motif into an intricate, jewellery-like embellishment. Elsewhere, fringe erupts from hipbone cutouts, while concealed metal structures manipulate the fabric into dramatic contours. Internal boning gives gowns and skirts their distinctive outward sweep, supporting cascades of silk fringe and feathers that bring texture and movement to the collection, even in moments of stillness.

Beyond the spectacle of eveningwear, David Koma Spring/Summer 2027 expands the designer’s universe through separates, knitwear, and versatile layering pieces that carry its glamour into a broader wardrobe. The result is a collection in which performance, precision, and sensuality are balanced by strength. Rather than reserving extravagance for the red carpet, Koma presents glamour as an attitude to be worn on one’s own terms: confident, adaptable, and always commanding.