Korean–Danish label BIRROT returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week with Emotional Layers, its second runway collection and an intimate evolution of the brand’s signature duality. Presented against the industrial rawness of Paper Island, the show explored a delicate interplay between structure and fluidity, restraint and release.

Central to the season is Lay, BIRROT’s proprietary stretch crêpe, approached not as a mere fabric but as a design language. This material takes on sculptural form in pieces like the 3.1 Lay Skirt, where triple-bonded layers at the waist dissolve into a single, asymmetrically draped hem, mirroring the collection’s meditation on identity, cultural hybridity, and the unseen emotions we carry.

Familiar silhouettes, including the Boatneck Cardigan and Straight Trousers, were reimagined alongside statement designs such as the Lay² Hourglass Dress and gathered separates that morph from two-dimensional stillness to dynamic movement when worn, echoing Korean sartorial philosophies that honor the wearer’s individuality. Oversized and sharply tailored extremes coexisted, with adjustable buttons and convertible hems inviting a personal, almost playful reconfiguration of form.

Texture and tone were rendered with quiet precision: crisp recycled poly-cottons, gauzy organza, and cashmere joined variations of the Lay textile in a muted palette of earthy sands, deep indigo, and brick red, softened by gentle washes of baby blue.

Closing with the complete seasonal lineup, the presentation was enriched by an original score from Korean artist Bek Hyunjin, with additional production by Yourhighness, weaving BIRROT’s cultural dialogue into both sight and sound. Emotional Layers affirms the label’s understated yet potent narrative where clothing becomes a vessel for tactility, identity, and emotion.