The collection softens Alaïa’s signature architecture without compromising its integrity. A gray turtleneck dress captures this recalibrated mood, its subtle flare achieved through knit crin subtly integrated at the hips, a nod to the structural curves Mulier introduced during the New York museum show. The house’s recurring Guggenheim silhouette returns, refined and less theatrical yet still unmistakably sculptural. Outerwear receives a similar treatment: a balloon peacoat in dense English wool reinterprets the dramatic veil-hood of a past winter coat, translating its grandeur into a more understated interplay of collar and volume suitable for daily wear.

Accessories, always central to Alaïa’s contemporary identity, rise to prominence once again. The cult Teckel bag appears in a softened new iteration, now joined by a larger, bolder companion fittingly named the Bulldog. Both continue the maison’s enduring fascination with tactile shape and ergonomic form. Denim, too, asserts its place in the brand’s lexicon. A sleeveless peplum top paired with liquid, pooled trousers bridges Mulier’s menswear heritage with Azzedine Alaïa’s own affection for denim’s structure and ease, illustrating how utility and elegance can coexist within the house’s sculptural framework.

A sense of playful provocation winds through the lookbook, most notably in the introduction of sheer Swiss-dot stocking pants – voluminous, translucent, and styled beneath coats and dresses to create layered silhouettes that feel unmistakably modern. Mulier’s ongoing exploration of legwear, seen recently in fringed stocking-skirts on the Spring 2026 runway, evolves here with pieces designed to spark a double-take and expand the borders of what the Alaïa silhouette can express.

The emotional crescendo of the collection arrives through a vivid pink, bias-cut gown in double satin. Deceptively simple at first glance, the piece reveals a complex construction requiring absolute precision. Originally created for a friend’s wedding, it now forms the nucleus of a small capsule within the collection, proof that spontaneity can crystallize into a new house archetype. Fluid, luminous, and sharply engineered, the gown embodies the essence of Resort 2026: sculptural confidence balanced with intimacy, modernity fused with the quiet rigor that defines Mulier’s Alaïa.