Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s Pre-Fall 2026 lookbook for By Malene Birger signals a designer increasingly assured in shaping the house’s evolving identity. In her third collection, she navigates a thoughtful middle ground between two defining legacies: the restrained minimalism of the Maja Dixdotter era and the more expressive, embellished spirit rooted in Malene Birger’s original vision. Rather than leaning fully into either, the collection finds strength in balance, presenting a refined elegance that feels intentional, modern, and quietly confident.

This equilibrium is most evident in knitwear adorned with teardrop crystal embroidery that dissolves into delicate fringe at the hem. The effect is subtly celebratory, lending movement and shimmer to otherwise streamlined silhouettes. Sensuality is approached with restraint, emerging through the interplay of transparency and texture. Organza panels, airy knits, and layered sheers create moments of reveal and conceal that feel measured rather than overt, reinforcing a soft-spoken confidence that runs throughout the collection.

Tailoring and ease coexist fluidly. Sand-toned washed denim grounds the lookbook in practicality, while an ivory shorts suit is gently defined by a knitted sash that shapes the waist without disrupting its relaxed attitude. The brand’s signature slip dress returns with a sweeping cape overlay, introducing a controlled sense of drama that elevates a familiar form. Elsewhere, pointelle knits carry a wandering motif inspired by an archival logo, weaving heritage into the collection with subtle modernity.

The palette remains anchored in neutrals, staying true to the house’s signature restraint, but is quietly enlivened by deeper accents. Aubergine and mint bring a refined lift, culminating in a plush cardigan and miniskirt set rendered in both hues. The spongy, cushioned texture of the knit underscores the season’s emphasis on comfort, tactility, and wearability.

As a whole, Pre-Fall 2026 succeeds in articulating a cohesive and assured narrative. While certain decorative elements could push further to fully explore the maximalist thread, Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s controlled hand lends the collection a polished clarity. With this offering, By Malene Birger continues to refine its language, presenting a compelling vision that harmonizes minimal precision with measured embellishment for the house’s next chapter.